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The Talgar peak

   

 Mountaineering expedition to the peak of Talgar ( 5017m )
  
climbing in tien shan 
The peak of Talgar is the highest point of the Zailiysky Allatau, the northernmost range of the Tien-Shan mountains. This peak, as well as the surrounding ones are very popular with mountaineers of different qualifications. Saying nothing about the others, only to this peak there are 9 classified routes, from 3A to 6A categories of difficulty.
Expeditions to Talgar peak are done on a regular basis by Trekking Club team that provides climbers with professional guides, all necessary equipment for comfortable camping. 
 
 

 

 Season           

 July – first half of September

 Duration                

 7 days

 Minimum number of participants

 6 people

 

  THE ROUTES AVAILABLE FOR CLIMBING

  Variant 1

 Climbing of a Main Summit(5017m) from Korzhnevsky glacier, 3A category 

  Variant 2 

 Climbing of South summit (5000m) from Middle Talgar gorge, by 4A category (Baranovsky route) 

 
Variant 1
 

 Climbing of a Main Summit (5017m) from Korzhnevsky glacier, 3A category 

 Day 1

Drive to Issyk lake. Trek up following Zharsai river, 6-7 hours 

 Day 2

Trek up to the foot of Kok-Bulak pass, 5-6 hours 

 Day 3

Climb over Kok-Bulak pass and trek by Korzhenevsky glacier, 6 hours 

 Day 4

Acclimatization day 

 Day 5

Climbing of Talgar peak(5017m) and back to the tent camp at a glacier.

 Day 6

Trek back to the Bozkol lake over Kok-Bulak pass, 6 hours 

 Day 7

Trek down to Issyk lake, drive back from Issyk to Almaty city, 6-7 hours 

 
Information on the route
 

 Trekking period

  • There are 2 days of trekking from Issyk lake (end of the road) up to the foot of Talgar massif, over Kok-Bulak pass (4036m). And one more day of walking by Korzhenevsky glacier.  
  • 32km is a total length of trekking route

 Climbing period

  • Character of the route: snow-icy, average steepness of the slopes – 30°  
  • Technically difficult parts will be handled with fixed ropes by the guides.
  • The climbing period takes 8-9 hours, from a camp to the top and back 

 We provide with

  • Transport    
  • Living tents 
  • Kitchen and gas gear 
  • Climbing equipment 
  • Mountain guides and assistants    
  • USB-communication and satellite phone for emergency cases    
  • Foodstuff    
  • First-aid kit

Notice: 
All the members and guides are carrying all the expedition stuff(common gear) together: all the weight has to be divided between all the members.

 
Variant 2
  

 Climbing of South summit (5000m) from Middle Talgar gorge, by 4A category (Baranovsky route) 

 Day 1

Drive to Almaty natural resort gate (via Talgar village). Trek up to the place of former “Talgar” mountaineering camp, 7-8 hours 

 Day 2

Trek up by the gorge to the South Talgar glacier, 6-7 hours 

 Day 3

Acclimatization day: climbing of Klyshtau peak, 4 hours 

 Day 4

Climbing of Talgar south summit (5000m), 12 hours and back to the tent camp. 

 Day 5

Reserve day 

 Day 6

Trek back to the “Talgar” mountaineering camp.

 Day 7

Trek back to the national reserve entry point. Drive back to Almaty, 4-5 hours 

 
Information on the route
 

 Trekking period

  • There are 2 trekking days from a national reserve entry up to the South Talgar glacier, by Middle Talgar gorge.  
  • 18km is a total length of trekking route 

 Climbing period

  • Character of the route: snow-icy, average steepness of the slopes – 35-40°    
  • Technically difficult parts will be handled with fixed ropes by the guides. 
  • The climbing period takes 12 hours, from a camp at a height of 3500m to the top and back 

 We provide with                     

 

  • Transport    
  • Living tents 
  • Kitchen and gas gear 
  • Climbing equipment 
  • Mountain guides and assistants    
  • USB-communication and satellite phone for emergency cases    
  • Foodstuff    
  • First-aid kit 
  • Entry fee to a natural resort

Notice: 
All the members and guides are carrying all the expedition stuff (common gear) together: all the weight has to be divided between all the members.

  
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info@trekkingclub.kz +7 727 229 31 04