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Peak Mayakovskogo (4208 m) along the south-eastern ridge, category 3B. |
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Peak Mayakovskogo (4,208 m) along the south-eastern ridge, Category 3B
The approach to the route begins from lateral moraines of the Tuyuk-Su Glacier. The route begins from underneath the western wall of the top, under the so called “striped vest” – rocks shaped like stairs, below the bridge between Peak Mayakovskogo and the Ordzhonikidze Pass. The ascent to the first step is on the right, along a non-steep ice-and-snow slope, and goes out to a broad ramp. Traverse to the left along the ramp to a flat internal angle which goes out to the ridge. There is another ramp here, whence the ascent to the ridge begins
R0 - R1
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A rock wall, not difficult but steep. The wall goes out to a ramp where spotting across the ledge can be set up. |
R1 - R2
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Above the ramp – a steep internal angle to be passed to the right. |
R2 - R3 |
Move up along the chimney. Then, after the ramp, the route goes right to a narrow corridor where in its upper part there is a plug. The chimney goes out to the ridge where you can set up a station on the ledge. |
R3 - R4 |
Move along the ridge, about 100 m . A steep rock wall in the middle of the place, to be passed on the right. |
R4 - R5 |
An easy rock wall – 20 m. |
R5 - R6 |
100- 150 m of destroyed rocks going out to the top. The ascent goes along the eastern part of the ridge.
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Descent along Route 3А.
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