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Peak Ordzhonikidze (4410 m), route on the northern wall, category 4B. |
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Peak Ordzhonikidze (4,410 m), route on the northern wall, Category 4B
Having descended the Ordzhonikidze Pass towards the Levyi Talgar, move toward the middle part of the northern wall. The wall has a series of counterforts in the form of rock islands.
The route goes on ice along the whole wall, first on a very wide and then narrowing corridor. The route should be done early in the morning in cold weather. The route is rather steep, and not much snow accumulates here, so it is convenient to be covered in the winter.
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R0 - R3
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Snow and ice ascents, with varying steepness of 20 to 40 degrees. Move to the left part of the bergschrund. |
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R3 - R4
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The bergschrund will be passed on its narrowest part, 10- 15 m , depending on the season. |
| R4 - R5 |
200 mtowards the rock exit, up and to the right. |
| R5 - R6 |
Move toward the middle part of the ice neck. |
| R6 - R7 |
The steepest part of the wall, going across its narrowest place. There is sinter ice in the middle part, 90 degrees. |
| R7 - R8 |
Exit from the neck to a flatter ice slope, to the left part of the crater.
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| R8 - R9 |
Exit to the ridge. |
| R9 - R10 |
Ice ridge to the top. |
Descent on the north-western ridge to the Ordzhonikidze Pass , Route 3А.
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