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The Talgar peak |
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Mountaineering expedition to the peak of Talgar ( 5017m )
 The peak of Talgar is the highest point of the Zailiysky Allatau, the northernmost range of the Tien-Shan mountains. This peak, as well as the surrounding ones are very popular with mountaineers of different qualifications. Saying nothing about the others, only to this peak there are 9 classified routes, from 3A to 6A categories of difficulty.
Expeditions to Talgar peak are done on a regular basis by Trekking Club team that provides climbers with professional guides, all necessary equipment for comfortable camping.
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Season
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July – first half of September
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Duration
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7 days
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Minimum number of participants
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6 people
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THE ROUTES AVAILABLE FOR CLIMBING
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Variant 1
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Climbing of a Main Summit(5017m) from Korzhnevsky glacier, 3A category
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Variant 2
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Climbing of South summit (5000m) from Middle Talgar gorge, by 4A category (Baranovsky route)
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Variant 1
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Climbing of a Main Summit (5017m) from Korzhnevsky glacier, 3A category
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Day 1
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Drive to Issyk lake. Trek up following Zharsai river, 6-7 hours
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Day 2
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Trek up to the foot of Kok-Bulak pass, 5-6 hours
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Day 3
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Climb over Kok-Bulak pass and trek by Korzhenevsky glacier, 6 hours
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Day 4
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Acclimatization day
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Day 5
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Climbing of Talgar peak(5017m) and back to the tent camp at a glacier.
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Day 6
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Trek back to the Bozkol lake over Kok-Bulak pass, 6 hours
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Day 7
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Trek down to Issyk lake, drive back from Issyk to Almaty city, 6-7 hours
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Information on the route
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Trekking period
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- There are 2 days of trekking from Issyk lake (end of the road) up to the foot of Talgar massif, over Kok-Bulak pass (4036m). And one more day of walking by Korzhenevsky glacier.
- 32km is a total length of trekking route
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Climbing period
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- Character of the route: snow-icy, average steepness of the slopes – 30°
- Technically difficult parts will be handled with fixed ropes by the guides.
- The climbing period takes 8-9 hours, from a camp to the top and back
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We provide with
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- Transport
- Living tents
- Kitchen and gas gear
- Climbing equipment
- Mountain guides and assistants
- USB-communication and satellite phone for emergency cases
- Foodstuff
- First-aid kit
Notice:
All the members and guides are carrying all the expedition stuff(common gear) together: all the weight has to be divided between all the members.
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Climbing of South summit (5000m) from Middle Talgar gorge, by 4A category (Baranovsky route)
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Day 1
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Drive to Almaty natural resort gate (via Talgar village). Trek up to the place of former “Talgar” mountaineering camp, 7-8 hours
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Day 2
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Trek up by the gorge to the South Talgar glacier, 6-7 hours
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Day 3
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Acclimatization day: climbing of Klyshtau peak, 4 hours
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Day 4
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Climbing of Talgar south summit (5000m), 12 hours and back to the tent camp.
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Day 5
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Reserve day
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Day 6
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Trek back to the “Talgar” mountaineering camp.
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Day 7
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Trek back to the national reserve entry point. Drive back to Almaty, 4-5 hours
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Information on the route
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Trekking period
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- There are 2 trekking days from a national reserve entry up to the South Talgar glacier, by Middle Talgar gorge.
- 18km is a total length of trekking route
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Climbing period
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- Character of the route: snow-icy, average steepness of the slopes – 35-40°
- Technically difficult parts will be handled with fixed ropes by the guides.
- The climbing period takes 12 hours, from a camp at a height of 3500m to the top and back
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We provide with
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- Transport
- Living tents
- Kitchen and gas gear
- Climbing equipment
- Mountain guides and assistants
- USB-communication and satellite phone for emergency cases
- Foodstuff
- First-aid kit
- Entry fee to a natural resort
Notice:
All the members and guides are carrying all the expedition stuff (common gear) together: all the weight has to be divided between all the members.
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