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Khan Tengri climb: tactics


Khan Tengri (7010m) peak climb: tactic basics
Recommendations from A.Raspopov

The importance of advance acclimatization should not be underestimated when planning any ascent to the tops above 6000m. The success of your climb will not only depend on the altitude of the highest night, but on the adaptation process as a whole.

The graph presents expedition itinerary for the classic route from the north. Difference in physiology and participant’s background, as well as personal guiding experience were taken into account when designed this plan.

Nuances that are worth paying attention to:

  • In the schedule there is no night at 6000m: the benefits of such overnight staying are controversial. It is replaced by the second night at an altitude of 5600m, plus an ascent to/descent from 6000m.
  • An important part of the process is adaptation at 4000m in the beginning of the expedition: few days were specially allotted for that. During this period be sure to move, but not excessively. This will help to rub through the acclimatization hike and not to undermine health (diseases are often the result of improper acclimatization).
  • Going to the top, do not skip the nights in mid camps, trying to reach highest in one day. Subsequently, it can badly affect your physical state.
  • The graph does not display the speed of day passages, but the rate of rise is very important at high altitudes. Do not overload yourself, trying to catch or overtake the others. Choose the walking rate a bit slower than what you can really develop, but keep in mind that day passage delaying is also not good.

Khan Tengri peak climb: tactics

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