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Peak Komsomol (4376m), on the north-western range, category 3B. |
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Peak Komsomol on the north-western range, Category 3B (4,376 m)
There are 3 approaches to the beginning of the route from the Malaya Almatinka Gorge: via the Talgarski Pass , via the Chertovo Gorge and the Abaya Pass , or via the Pionerski Pass. In the winter, with a risk of an avalanche and a lot of snow on the slopes, the best way is via the Pionerski Pass. All these three ways go out to the Bogdanovicha Glacier.
The route begins from a bridge between peaks of Fizkulturnik and Komsomola. Go up along the internal angle to a small gendarme, and then descend to the ice bridge, to R0.
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R0 - R1
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Move along ramps, to the right of the main ridge. The ramps are not very steep, the station is on a ledge. |
| R1 - R2 |
Move on along ramps. The climbing is not very difficult, but you have to step over a steep corridor in one place on the disruption. |
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R2 - R3
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Move along the talus corridor, with spots of ice. There is a wall at the end of the corridor on its left side. Climb the wall which is 80 degrees steep in some spots. The rocks are disintegrated. Hooks for the stations have been set upstairs. |
| R3 - R4 |
Not a very steep corridor up the wall. Spotting across the ledge. |
| R4 - R5 |
Not steep talus slopes. |
| R5 - R8 |
Climb the gendarmes, most of them are passed on the right. |
| R8 - R9 |
Exit to the summit along the snow and ice slope about 40 degrees steep. |
Descent by 2А route to the Komsomol Pass
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