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Peak Uchitel (4045m), on the south-western counterfort, category 4B. |
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Peak Uchitel on the south-western counterfort, Category 4B (4,045 m)
The route begins from the lateral moraine of Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier, whence you need to go 150- 200 meters up on the talus up to the counterfort.
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R0 - R1
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First wall: straight upwards 40 meters , to the ramp. There are a lot of crack along the way for intermediate spotting. |
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R1 - R2
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From the ramp, move straight upwards across oblique mushroomings, steepness in some places is 90 degrees. The wall goes out to a slant ramp |
| R2 - R3 |
Rocks in the form of an oblique internal angle. Approach along the angle to the left. It has a place for a station here. |
| R3 - R4 |
Climbing the wall, 10 meters , to the internal angle. About 25 meters along the internal angle to the talus ramp. |
| R4 - R5 |
A big slant talus ramp. |
| R5 - R6 |
A rock with a narrow crack in the center shifting to the right. Again, a talus ramp in its upper part.
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| R6 - R7 |
An exit from the ramp to the pre-summit ridge along an easy internal angle - 30 meters . Then, exit to the summit with spotting. |
Descent by 2А.
The route is almost always going upward, along the counterfort to the top.
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