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Peak Uchitel (4045m), route on the eastern side, category 2A. |
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Peak Uchitel (4,045 m), route on the eastern side, Category 2А
Approach to the route from the moraine of the Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier, on the talus slope towards the Geroyev-Panfilovtsev Pass. 150 m short of the pass, turn left to the corridor. Underneath the wall in the corridor, there is a way like a narrow cleft. The way goes to yet another talus corridor which ends with a rock fireplace in 100 m . This is the beginning of the rock part of the route.
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R0 - R1
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The chimney is 65-70 degrees steep. Move along it to the end. In the winter and early summer, the chimney is clogged with snow. The chimney goes out to a ramp on the ridge. The ramp is rather wide to accommodate 3 to 4 people at a time. It has a metal rope loop for the station, on the ledge. |
| R1 - R2 |
A narrow horizontal ramp of 5 m. |
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R2 - R3
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A 30-meter wall: move up along it, shifting to the left on a vague internal angle. The rocks are not difficult. Above the wall, there is a ramp with stationary hooks to set up a station. |
| R3 - top |
To the left of the ramp, along tilted plates, 3 meters, then exit to the talus which leads to the top. There are easy rocks in the form of stone stairs in front of the top. |
Descent on the ascending way.
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